To start with, the home-made rope sheave was removed from the flywheel, revealing that the cast-on letters were, in fact, missing. After that, the flywheel itself was removed, revealing the added counterweights that were screwed to the underside.

I am curious as to why that was done, since the Fakely flywheel counterweight is already so huge, circling nearly halfway around the inside rim of the flywheel! I think the answer to this question was because the crankshaft had a keyway cut in that was 90 degrees off, so the added counterweights may have been an attempt to fix a really bad out of balance condition caused by the flywheel being in the wrong orientation relative to TDC.

Oh well, on with the job. Removing the cylinder revealed an ALUMINUM piston instead of the correct cast iron part. Not only that, but instead of a cast-in deflector, somebody has screwed what appears to be a small piece of angle iron to the flat-top piston crown. This ain't going well, is it?

Anyway, I removed the crankshaft and put it in a bench centre to indicate it for wobble or runout, and it was absolutely terrible. Bad enough that I think the entire length of the upper journal needs to be welded and machined back to nominal dimension, which is a repair I've not attempted before. As it happened, I had some crankshafts put aside and one out of a Caille 5-speed rowboat motor is almost a perfect match for the one in the Fakely with the exception of the lower crank journal, which can be altered easily enough to work in the Fakely but could still be used in a Caille if it has to be.... it was good fortune that the taper in the flywheel areas are identical between the Grays and Cailles, at least with this Caille in particular. I'll renew the bearing in the lower crankcase housing, improve the fit of the Fakely connecting rod to the Caille crank, and that should address the matter of the crankcase being fit for operation.

A real quick hit-list of other things that need doing - Studs for the tilt quadrant thumbscrews are broken off short and I have to figure out what to do with that. Need bronze wing-nuts for same.

The lower unit parts might need a bushing here or there but largely usable as is. The driveshaft knuckles are a bit loose but if I try to tighten them up I will do more harm than good. I need one transom pad. There are several small screws to make to replace fasteners that are incorrect or too badly damaged to save. I'll fill the drilled/tapped holes on the flywheel with JB Weld and paint it. Need to make a muffler can and end cap. Replace water tubing and the flex hose. Make a length of brass tubing for the cylinder water drain.

I might be able to re-use this tank if I get the proper mounting bracket. Make a proper filler neck and gas cap for the tank. The timer needs to be silver soldered to fix a crack, and the pieces with the fixed and moving contact points need replacing. I'll make all new gaskets for it (not that it needs many). And of course its got to be all stripped and painted, or polished as necessary.